My goal is for your newly restored weaving to last as long as possible. All weaving has a lifespan and will eventually need replaced- weaving maintenance is part of the ownership of woven furniture.
Following these care guidelines will help you get the best life out of your weaving.
Following these care guidelines will help you get the best life out of your weaving.
General Care for All Weaves
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Bottoms only! Applies to adults, children, and all woven seats. Do not stand or kneel on seats- this is a sure fire way to eventually bust right through the weaving no matter how new it is.
When sitting down do not "plop" or "collapse" into the seat- weaving is not meant to catch a fall. If you are unable to ease into a seat you may need to replace the seat more often or it may not be for you. |
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- Do not place woven items in heat (such as over a register) or in direct sunlight.
- Do not leave woven furniture outdoors when not in use. Every weave I do is best used on indoor furniture.
- Keep all woven furniture in climate controlled areas of the house. Storing in a hot, dry attic can very quickly dry out the weaving, while storing pieces in a damp basement or garage can cause mildew to form and eat away at the material.
Finishes: I do not offer any sealant, stain, chemical, oil or other applications to weaving. These products are highly hazardous to both people and environments.
If you are DIYing a finish to your chair make sure to test out what you are doing first. Remnants of all materials I use are available at no charge to my clients upon request. Always follow the product directions. Proper ventilation is VERY important!
Want to leave it to a professional? For all staining, refinishing, and wood repair services, I refer my clients to Coup Restorations
Emza’s Chair Caning & Weaving is not responsible for any stain, paint, sealant or other finishes applied to the weaving.
If you are DIYing a finish to your chair make sure to test out what you are doing first. Remnants of all materials I use are available at no charge to my clients upon request. Always follow the product directions. Proper ventilation is VERY important!
Want to leave it to a professional? For all staining, refinishing, and wood repair services, I refer my clients to Coup Restorations
Emza’s Chair Caning & Weaving is not responsible for any stain, paint, sealant or other finishes applied to the weaving.
Care for All Forms of Caning: Hand, Sheet, French, Double, Herringbone, New England Porch, and Danish Peel
Uneven pressure will cause seats to fail prematurely- Do not sit with your foot tucked under your bum, or with keys, wallet, or other items in the back pocket.
If needed, gently clean the caning with a damp cloth or with oil based wood cleaner. If you feel you must treat the caning use a very light application of lemon oil no more than once a year.
I suggest using a cushion or pad for larger caned seats that are used frequently. This will help distribute your weight evenly and help prolong the life of the cane panel. Especially with boney bottoms that put uneven wear on seats.
Is your seat sagging? Over time cane seats can start to sag when the elastic properties aren't bouncing back as it used to. To give the seat a little face lift, turn the chair upside-down and place a warm, damp (not dripping) washcloth or hand towel on the underside of the seat (being careful not to get the finish of your chair wet). Give that an hour to soak in. Take the towel off and DO NOT SIT on the seat for 24-48 hours. This does not work as well on cane that has been stained and will not help on very old seats or when the caning is already breaking.
Information on color matching cane CLICK HERE
There is no way to tell exactly how long your new caning should last, but a general rule of thumb of well cared for caning in Ohio is between 5-30 years. Sheet caning is designed to last closer to 5-10 years while Hand Caning has a longer durability.
If needed, gently clean the caning with a damp cloth or with oil based wood cleaner. If you feel you must treat the caning use a very light application of lemon oil no more than once a year.
I suggest using a cushion or pad for larger caned seats that are used frequently. This will help distribute your weight evenly and help prolong the life of the cane panel. Especially with boney bottoms that put uneven wear on seats.
Is your seat sagging? Over time cane seats can start to sag when the elastic properties aren't bouncing back as it used to. To give the seat a little face lift, turn the chair upside-down and place a warm, damp (not dripping) washcloth or hand towel on the underside of the seat (being careful not to get the finish of your chair wet). Give that an hour to soak in. Take the towel off and DO NOT SIT on the seat for 24-48 hours. This does not work as well on cane that has been stained and will not help on very old seats or when the caning is already breaking.
Information on color matching cane CLICK HERE
There is no way to tell exactly how long your new caning should last, but a general rule of thumb of well cared for caning in Ohio is between 5-30 years. Sheet caning is designed to last closer to 5-10 years while Hand Caning has a longer durability.
Care for Danish Cord
Never wet the Danish Cord down. Vacuum to dust. If food spills onto the Danish Cord, clean immediately and gently with a damp cloth. Do not scrub or let the Danish Cord remain wet. Wait at least 24 hours before using the chair again.
Danish Cord on the market today should be left untreated. Reports of disastrous reactions with sealants and stains have occurred with weavers across the country.
Danish Cord can be treated lightly with Scotch Guard, but I have not experimented with that treatment- use at your own risk. Danish Cord remnants for testing finishes are available for clients upon request.
Danish Cord on the market today should be left untreated. Reports of disastrous reactions with sealants and stains have occurred with weavers across the country.
Danish Cord can be treated lightly with Scotch Guard, but I have not experimented with that treatment- use at your own risk. Danish Cord remnants for testing finishes are available for clients upon request.
Care for Splint
Splint can be left as is or it can be sealed/stained or painted.
You may tint the sealant for a stained look. However, do not use straight stain on its own unless you test the results first.
For a natural look you can add tung oil for use indoors or boiled linseed oil for use outdoors.
Splint remnants for testing finishes are available for clients upon request.
No matter where you keep it and use it, take care to keep it dry. Moisture can develop to mold and mildew in the weaving and on the structure itself.
You may tint the sealant for a stained look. However, do not use straight stain on its own unless you test the results first.
For a natural look you can add tung oil for use indoors or boiled linseed oil for use outdoors.
Splint remnants for testing finishes are available for clients upon request.
No matter where you keep it and use it, take care to keep it dry. Moisture can develop to mold and mildew in the weaving and on the structure itself.
Care for Hickory
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Hickory can be sanded and tung oiled. Make sure surface is free of dust and totally dry before applying tung oil. Apply with a toothbrush an wipe the excess with a cloth. Repeat to desired surface. If freshening up old Hickory, test an area first and make sure there aren't any other surface treatments that might resist the oil.
If your Hickory should ever get wet or damp for any reason it is very important to help it dry immediately by placing it in the sun and/or in front of a fan. Hickory is very susceptible to mold. Do not sit until well dry- 48-72 hours later. Best kept indoors or sheltered from the elements. |
Care for Shaker Tape
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Shaker Tape is 100% cotton and is meant to be fade resistant. However, I would play it safe and keep it out of strong direct sunlight.
Even though it is a manufactured material it is still all cotton and should not be kept in damp conditions. Mold and mildew can take hold. |
Care for Rushing (no longer offered)
Vacuum to dust. If food spills onto the rush, clean immediately and gently (do not scrub!) with a damp cloth. Wait at least 24 hours before using the chair again. Never fully wet the rush down.
It is highly recommended to seal all types of Rush with shellac. It will help protect the rush from spills and will help to keep the strands working together. Shellac is preferred and comes in clear, amber, garnet for a bit of color. It will take multiple coats to cover. Follow instructions for drying time between coats. It is best to test how the sealant will take on the rush- test on the underside or remnants for testing finishes are available for clients upon request. Shellac must be fresh to use. If the test strip will not cure then your shellac is expired and should not be used.
It is highly recommended to seal all types of Rush with shellac. It will help protect the rush from spills and will help to keep the strands working together. Shellac is preferred and comes in clear, amber, garnet for a bit of color. It will take multiple coats to cover. Follow instructions for drying time between coats. It is best to test how the sealant will take on the rush- test on the underside or remnants for testing finishes are available for clients upon request. Shellac must be fresh to use. If the test strip will not cure then your shellac is expired and should not be used.
